Most people think of shea butter as something thick and rich, the kind of thing you'd find in a body balm. So it can be a surprise to see it near the top of a lightweight serum. In the ZÉORA Ritual, shea butter is in one step only: Oktélia, our serum. Clarus, the cleanser, and Hydronéa, the cream, don't contain it.
Here's what shea butter is, what published research says about it (and what it doesn't), and why it's part of Oktélia's milky texture.
What shea butter is
Shea butter is a natural fat taken from the nuts of the shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa, also known by its older name Butyrospermum parkii), which grows across the savanna belt of West and Central Africa. The nuts are collected, dried and processed into a soft, ivory-colored butter that melts at around skin temperature. On skincare labels it appears as Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter.
Shea butter is made up mainly of fatty acids, especially stearic acid and oleic acid, plus a smaller "unsaponifiable" fraction that contains plant compounds such as triterpene alcohols. That mix is why it feels cushiony and soft on the skin.
What research says about shea butter
It's worth being precise, because there are fewer studies on shea butter by itself on the face than its popularity might suggest.
- A review of clinical studies on butters and oils. A 2022 review in Frontiers in Pharmacology looked at 27 clinical studies of 17 vegetable butters and oils used on skin, including shea butter. It found that the fatty-acid makeup matters: oils high in oleic acid and low in linoleic acid may disturb the skin's outer layer when skin is already compromised, while oils higher in linoleic and saturated fatty acids may be better tolerated. It also noted that skin that isn't compromised may not react negatively to oleic-rich oils, and that how often and how long an oil is used matters too. (Poljšak & Kočevar Glavač, 2022)
- A lab study of a shea butter and vitamin E cream. A 2025 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science tested a moisturizing cream containing shea butter, vitamin E and other ingredients on human skin cells grown in a lab. The cream showed antioxidant activity and increased markers linked to skin moisture in those cells. This was a cell study of a different, complete formula, not a test on people, and it doesn't isolate what shea butter does on its own. (Mohanan et al., 2025)
What the research doesn't show: we haven't found studies that test shea butter on its own in a serum like Oktélia, and neither study above tested a ZÉORA product. So we don't claim a specific result from shea butter. In Oktélia it's one part of a blend, there for the soft, cushioned feel it gives the texture.
Where it sits in Oktélia
Ingredient lists run from the highest amount to the lowest. Shea butter is ingredient #6 in Oktélia, right after water, sweet almond oil, glycerin, propylene glycol and propanediol. That places it among the main ingredients that build the serum's milky, lightweight base, together with sweet almond oil (#2). Further down the list, Oktélia also contains vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate, #12), grape seed oil (#18) and sodium hyaluronate (#20), along with the botanicals of the Samos Garden, including Greek yarrow (Achillea millefolium), sage and damask rose.
How Oktélia fits in the Ritual
The ZÉORA Ritual has three steps, used morning and evening:
- Clarus · Cleanse, the gel cleanser.
- Oktélia · Calm, the serum with shea butter. Apply 3 drops, one on the forehead and one on each cheek, and gently spread over the face until fully absorbed.
- Hydronéa · Restore, the cream. Apply evenly to clean facial skin after cleansing.
Hydronéa doesn't contain SPF, so in the morning finish with a sunscreen of your choice.
A note for sensitive skin
Hydronéa is our fragrance-free step. Clarus and Oktélia do contain fragrance. Shea butter comes from a tree nut, and Oktélia also contains sweet almond oil and soy lecithin, so if you have a nut or soy allergy, please check with your doctor first. Every full ingredient list is on its product page, so you can check each one before you buy.
If your skin is sensitive, introduce one new product at a time and patch-test first. The American Academy of Dermatology explains how to test a skincare product before using it on your face.
For a simple look at everyday skin barrier support, see our guide for sensitive skin.
Keep reading
- Sweet Almond Oil for Sensitive Skin: Why It's #2 in Oktélia
- Grape Seed Oil for Sensitive Skin: The Light Oil in Oktélia & Hydronéa
- Evodia for Sensitive Skin: The Rare Fruit Extract in Oktélia
- Sodium Hyaluronate: The Hydrating Ingredient in Oktélia
This article is general skincare information, not medical advice. ZÉORA products are cosmetics, not medicines. If you have a skin condition, or notice persistent redness, itching, swelling or a rash, please speak with a board-certified dermatologist before changing your routine.
